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    Thursday, December 27, 2007

    Crackpot

    27 December 2007: I'm lying on my pack, in the rain, at dusk, clutching my injured knee on the bouldered banks of the Wanganui River Valley and this guy is talking to me about lemons.

    Lemons are what you don't want to add up - the gambling equivalent of hitting all cherries or 7's - winning you the outdoor disaster jackpot. My knee is no slot machine, but I did hear it bling, ring, and pop!

    Now faced with the decision of turning back or seeking shelter, I recalled a quote by the great philosopher, Yogi Berra, who said: If you come to a fork in the road, take it.

    So, that night, I chose to continue on - though the rain, darkness, and swollen rivers to Hunters Hut.

    Many hours and a few more lemons later, Andy (Colorado, Astronomy PhD candidate) and I bivouacked before an impassable river crossing. Maybe tomorrow, we'll get to the hut and make lemonade.

    Image from: jackie (bivouac shelter)

    Saturday, December 1, 2007

    Piece

    1 December 2007: Kate's blog entry on our bike ride for peace through East Timor. Enjoy.

    Flashback: Maubisse to Dili Roadrace

    Talking with my sister via Skype I realized that I never told to story of the bike race, and that my family have only heard bits and pieces, primarily that I fell off. It was much more glorious than that, so some retroactive blogging is in order:

    My friend Boatshoe and I were brought together because of three things, rugby, prom dresses (or more accurately, rugby in prom dresses) and bikes. When it turned out that she would be coming though Timor-Leste en route to New Zealand (via Japan, Cambodia, India, UK, Spain, Indonesia no sst.), and I realized that I could offer neither polyester or a pitch, bikes it was.

    The race was organized to promote peace. Banners up around Dili featured a leggy, peddling dove and slogans about racial harmony and national unity. This is has been one of a series of public events aimed at rebuilding community cohesion and organized with the support of the Office of the President. The walk and concert on Saturday (22/12) are the next on the list.



    With Boatshoe and L onboard, and Vulgar agreeing to be our support man/menu advisor/pit crew boss, we headed out to Maubisse. I packed myself into the back of the ute with the bikes, turned up the Stones, and counted the up- and down-hills with growing comprehension of my total lack of preparedness.

    Maubisse sits high in the center of Timor-Leste, and really, that is still all I know about it. We arrived at the posada after dark, just as the rains came. And the scene was Timor-strange: I have never seen so many people carrying large weapons* next to so many people jumping around in bike helmets. At night. In the rain. The perpetually/prematurely be-helmed we dubbed “Team Helmet.”**

    At about four in the morning Team Hemet was up running a lap around the posada. The toilet that we were sleeping behind was coming to life, and the Australian ISF started breaking down their metal cots; there was no going back to sleep. Boatshoes shook the president’s hand, and then it was time to make a move for Dili.



    The race started with a slow and steady climb, then a series of long down-hills looking over a river valley patched with rice fields.

    Through Aileu (doing fine…) and Bam! I took a turn too wide, braked to avoid the motorbike (and a cow), and bit the pavement. I got back on, amidst fortifying shouts of “Motor salah!” (“It’s the motorbike’s fault”) and tootled down the rest of the hill before assessing the damage. My back wheel was potato-chipped, and I had a few minor scrapes. Some bike swaps later, the three of us were on the road and securely in the back of the pack.

    In the rear, with Team Helmet long gone, the stragglers – malae hotu-hotu – moaned our way up the hills. Boatshoe, with nothing to prove, joined Vulgar, and as we rolled by they’d serenade us with harmonica duets of Queen’s “Bicycle, Bicycle” from the bed of the Hilux.

    Sixty-five kilometers, and four-plus hours later, L and I pulled in at the Indonesian-era gates welcoming people to descend to Dili. I passed my bike off to Boatshoe, ostensibly to let her glide gamely into the capital – a gesture she easily understood as coming from my exhaustion of being absolutely terrified on the steep hairpin turns.

    To her unending credit, Boatshoe completed the worst uphill and the nastiest down-hill sections of the race. She was also the race’s only cyclist to wear flip-flops. Kudos, kudos.

    Back in Dili the PA system was being packed away at the Palacio and the fanfare over the winner, who had made it in 2.5 hours – on par with a car – had probably already showered and watched the evening news. Kudos, kudos.

    I want to do it again. To do it on my bike, to do it knowing what to expect, to do it after a good night’s sleep and a few weeks of sensible training. But that would be to ride it well, to make good time. What we did was truly a peace ride: at peace with taking up the rear, at peace with hurting for a week after, and accepting that sometimes the only thing to do is drop into the lowest gear and keep creeping forward, hoping things will get easier around the next bend.



    * The large police contingent was in part due to the presence of the president at the posada,

    ** The majority of Timorese riders had matching bikes and helmets, suggesting significant and admirable sponsorship. These was also some great justice to it all, as it was finally the malaes who were stuck at the back dealing with equipment malfunctions.

    Photos: Heading out from Dili. Bottom - Vulgar and Boatshoe before starting the race.

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