Supreme

18 August 2008: Today I had a chat with former Supreme Court Justice, Sandra Day O'Connor.

Here's a press statement: O'Connor is in Christchurch as an Eric Hotung Fellow after retiring from the Supreme Court in 2005. Hotung donated $HK1 million ($NZ185,000) to Canterbury University in 2005 to bring lawyers of international standing to the city and enhance the profile of the school.

She's been giving a series of law seminars: Rule of law around the world, Reflections from the US Supreme Court, and Guantanamo Bay: Legal black hole?

After today's talk, I introduced myself as a fellow American, shook her hand, and welcomed her to New Zealand. She was pleasantly surprised and asked what everyone else asks me: Why are you here?!

I told her it's the same reason she was brought here: funding.

Image from: the press

Precious

10 July 2008: Krissy (high school classmate and volleyball teammate) has been diagnosed with Myelodysplastic Syndrome (MDS).

MDS is a primary bone marrow condition, where her bone marrow does not produce normal blood cells. The condition is otherwise known as "preleukemia".

Typically diagnosed in 60+ year old men, Krissy is a vibrant 25 year old woman. Her treatment requires a bone marrow transplant. Complicated still by needing to find a tissue match given her mixed Asian and Caucasian heritage.

Attached, please find her letter to high school classmates and an article in the newspaper. She is calling for people to register with the National Bone Marrow Transplant Registry.

I am going to register, if I can from overseas. Details of the registration, commitment, and donation procedure can be found here.

Much love and good health.

Love,
Jackie

image from: krissy

Found

13 February 2008:

Greetings from Whangamata, Coromandel, North Island, New Zealand. Or more precisely: Paradise.

My first night in Whangamata I enjoyed the Nauti Girls angling competion, hence Nauti(al). I drank beer with sunburned kiwi women dressed as team lipstick, camouflage, or shark attack costumes and men in t-shirts reading "nauti bouy" and women's versions with "prawn star".

I met a hilarious local out in a boat from 6.30 AM to 5.00 PM. She caught 2 fish in the first 2 hours, got sea-sick, slept, got up to smoke a cigarette, and slept some more.

Such a wonderfully laid back, humorous, clean fun country. Come visit!

Here the mountains grip the sea, forest reserves lead to isolated waterfalls, and the surf stretches across a sandy beach. [Hm, reminds me of Malibu in LA...nevermind!]

I heart NZ!

images from: jackie

what Colombia has on India....

5 November 2007: Linda's email update on life in Colombia. Enjoy.

Guerrilla takeovers of isolated towns, like the one I was just in!

The following is a true story that transpired about 2 hours ago in a small pueblo called Salento in the zona cafetera de Colombia...

It went something like this. I´d gotten back from a trip to the Parque Nacional de Cafe (too Disneyland for me, but no matter) and spent an hour or so window shopping in the adorable storefronts that make up the Calle Real. I had taken all my stuff with me, in preparation to head to the nearby vereda Boquia later in the evening. At some point I decided I was hungry and headed to a restaurant on the plaza.

I walked in and noticed that the only customers were a couple finishing their meal, despite that fact that the place was huge and had a 6 or 7 person staff. No matter, I was hungry. I ordered bandeja paisa and a beer, and sat down to wait.

As the waiter brought me the beer, a waitress screamed something about guerrillas and ran to the front windows to close the large, wooden shutters... there were a few seconds when everyone seemed to be watching her and in awe. Then, everyone was running around agitated and talking on cell phones. Occasionally someone would glance out the window or door and comment on the people running through the plaza. The people who worked there, presumably from the area, seemed terrified and confused about what to do... there was discussion about whether we should stay locked up in the restaurant with all the shades closed pretending that the place was closed for the night, or if we should all go home. Several people seemed to think it was very dangerous to go out into the street and especially into the plaza.

Presumably the cellphone conversations revealed that the guerrilla was poised on the Mirador on the edge of town and seemed to be advancing (when I asked how this info came to us, no one would give me an answer.. one guy said, ¨Everybody knows.¨ You´ve got to wonder how this scene would have played out before the age of cell phones.) After a panicked 5 minutes with everyone huddled around the kitchen, a consensus emerged that we should all leave the building and get the hell away from the plaza.

Here arose a slightly sticky situation for your dear Lindahop... that being, 1 I had no where to go since I´d left my hostel and there were likely no more rooms available, 2 there was no way I was going to wait around indefinitely in the plaza for the bus, as I´d planned, 3 the hostel where I´d stayed was in the direction of the advancing guerrilla...

So, I asked one of the waiters where to go, and he said to wait for the bus with a frightened huddle on one side of the plaza. Thinking of the US passport in my bag, I immediately rejected this advice and knocked on the window of the car of another waiter as it was pulling out of its parking space... ¨Can you drop me off at a hostel, anywhere, pleeeease?¨ I begged, and to good effect. The guy and his friend brought me to a town about 20 minutes away...en route, he talked on his cell to someone still in the town. It seems that the guerrilla is advancing, although this person hadn´t yet seen them.

The waiters told me the guerrilla is based close-ish to Salento, but doesn´t come by town much these days, given the strong military presence in the area. Tonight´s case is special because the guerrilla´s preferred candidate lost in last Sunday´s elections, and presumably the guerrilla wants to teach the town a lesson.

The waiters were afraid of bombs more than anything else, though they nodded in agreement when I expressed my concern about being kidnapped.......

Exciting stuff, no? Much as I´m glad I got away so fast--and happy to see I can keep my presence of mind in a tense situation--the journalist in me is dying to be back there to see what this looks like....

Love,
Your favorite escape artist

Smell

5 November 2007: Seeing the fall colo(u)rs in the UK was a treat. But they are missing out on my favorite Providence season: wind.

Regardless, both England and Providence smell like mulch. I like it.

Here in India, I stink of sweat. I departed from the cool, English weather only to fly thousand of feet high, arrive in Mumbai, unpack, and see my garment bags and contact saline solution sweat like cold soda cans in the summer sun.

After I checked into my miniature room in Colaba, I immediately got into the shower. If only you had seen it - an actual shower head (rare), a bucket and cup (standard), no toilet paper (depends), and a high ceiling with layers of peeling paint (unreal). I didn't think it was odd, but I just wanted to share because I don't think you would believe I thought so.

Anyway, so I beat the heat by wandering away from the waterfront and the Gateway of India towards the high-end shops - the skin on hotel bones fed from the outdoor pool and squawking bird sanctuary belly.

I decided (since my last trip to India) it's better to stay cheap and eat out rich. I save on merely a clean and secure bed to sleep on to make way for food with better quality and taste. So at this beautiful restaurant in the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel & Tower, the only English conversations I picked up - besides my Economist news fix and my own lips smacking over masala dosa - were of marketing consultants and biomedical engineers.

I wonder, if I were to stay on my same track if things may work out richly in the end. And if I would want an alternate route, well, I could learn Hindi.

Here's a pakora in the face.

Love,
Jackie

Site

13 October 2007:

After two dreamy nights in the romantic lake and hillside city of Udaipur, I arrived last night (Friday) in the religious pilgrimage site of Pushkar, India.

Thursday was a dangerous day in the neighboring village of Ajmer. A bomb killed two people and injured almost two dozen in a Sufi shrine during this time ending Ramadan.

I read reports today that the attack has been linked to an Islamic group, which does not condone the Sufi sect of Islam? Very unclear at this point.

Last night I met up with a group on my same path. We had rooftop beers (neither alcohol nor meat should be consumed in the city, hehe) overlooking a small street center fireworks explosions for the nine day festival of Navratri.

It's odd to experience the improper and even dangerous perversions of seemingly normal behaviours. But overall I feel secure.

Ride

11 October 2007:

My only trouble was a bad fall on my 4 hour horse riding trip through the Udaipur countryside. My Spaniard guide, Pedro, took me out on his first time as a solo guide.

He was happy I had riding experience and we galloped uphill to a lovely lake view. We actually got there in half the typical time, so we ventured off to explore new routes - giving our horses some relief splashing through small streams, teetering through steep rocky mountain declines, and tromping past cows, goats, and excited children.

On the route back we were in an open field. Vamos - I asked Pedro. Vamos? We did.

Problem was the horse knew the left route, Pedro went right, and a wall was in the middle. I got the horse right, but the horse still protested, pulled back and arched left. The horse was still running, I was off on the left side trying to get back center, but lost it, fell and thanked my helmet.

Now I've got a great scabby scrape along my left upper arm, a bit on my back, and a hefty gash on my left forearm. Just what my parents want to see when I meet up with them in the UK for Jen's graduation next week.

Image from: jackie

Sands

06 October 2007:

Tonight's stop was a camel safari [in Khuri]. Afternoon ride to sunset stop [70 km from Pakistan].

Dinner under the stars. Only me, the camel driver, the camel, and a wild dog filled with our leftover potatoes and vegetables.

I was looking up at the sky and the driver asked me what I was "remembering".

Image from: jackie

Holy

06 October 2007:

News of local unrest in the heated desert of Jaisalmer.

Yesterday Muslims in a nearby farm killed 22-27 cows. Today all Hindus closed shops, the massive fort (25% of the city), and went on strike.

My hotel is outside the fort walls and I got a bird's eye view of flames near the fort and a mob demanding the school across the street from my hotel to close.

Eventually the school closed. The only things to remain open were health services and the dairy. Around two dozen cows die and they don't even get a day off... Shame.

I'm sure you would have enjoyed the uncertainty and unsettling energy.

Unfortunately the stories were not informative. Something like this: They killed the cows. They killed the cows!

Images from: jackie

Open

Hey Mark and Liz -

Yesterday I flew on a tiny propellered fish painted airplane to arrive at Siem Reap. I'll be wandering around today to sweat and see what's Wat.

Like most places I travel to, Cambodia's weather reminds me of Hawaii. However, I've never seen a red sun forcing it's way through cloudlines towards a palm tree lined horizon quite like that before. Clem, my airport taxi scooter driver, was zooming along and I sat with the wind through my hair having only felt the sky as big on Vermont's Lake Champlain.

In the next few days I hope to get out further in that magical land. And don't worry - I'll stay on paths to avoid land mines.

When I get out to the Angkor Hospital for Children, I'll be sure to drop your names and see if any Brown folks are still working there - doing as you two awesome people have done so well.

Thanks again for the advice and I hope each of you are doing well.

Best,
Jackie

Finale

Family and friends -

Hello again! Last week of 5 here in Cuzco Peru.

Week 3 was spent battling a cold in the sunny Northern shores of Peru. More surf in sunny Máncora, then our first ruins tour in Trujillo: Moche sun, moon, and rainbow temples, as well as ancient Moche mud cities. We took a brief escape to the Peruvian highlands in the beautiful countryside of Cajamarca until the Peruvian teacher protests ended. They had blocked the road to our next stop in the world's second highest mountain range in Huaraz Peru.

Week 4 we acclimated in Huaraz (3052m) before heading on a 4d Santa Cruz trek through the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in Huascarán National Park through Punta Unión Pass (4750m).

Along the last hundred or so meters up, the guides described Linda's altitude induced teetering in terms cervezas. I was no hero, I left her behind - slow and steady, like a condor - as our guide advised. Pictures of her 4 cerveza teetering, cocoa leaf cheek filled, red faced ascent to come!

Now, we're in Cuzco. Last bits. We've had good luck meeting up with friends: a local Peruvian guide, 2 public health nurses, and doppelganger travel buddies we've ran into randomly in 5 different cities (imagine a taller version of me and a redhead).

So, after 4 cities in Ecuador, 6 in Peru, and countless hours in a bus (I will count them), it all comes to a close here. Best to end with Machu Picchu, newly elected to the New 7 Wonders of the World and then home Sunday, July 29th.

Best,
Jackie

Coastal

Folks -

Right now I'm sitting next to a redheaded Jew as she beats a poor defenseless keyboard to death in Montañita Ecuador, the center of Ecuadorian surfing. We're nearing the end of week 2 of 5 on our southbound travels from Bogotá Colombia to Cuzco Peru.

But first, our 2-day stay in Puerto Lopéz Ecuador. The trip began after a sleepless 12 hour bus ride from Quito. Next time I'll take Dramamine. The dusty town of Puerto Lopéz is gateway to Ecuador's National Parque de Machalilla - home to a dry coastal forest (think Mojave desert brush fire heaven) and seasonal breeding ground of humpback whales (think dorks).

Monday, we body surfed in the Playa de los Frailes and yesterday saw humpback whales en route to and from Isla de la Plata - where I danced with blue footed boobies and Linda made giant albatross parents nervous as she clicked photos of their fledglings just beside the trail path.

When heading back to the mainland, we saw a whole flock of birds diving into a school of fish below, which were also being devoured by a carpet of dolphins sweeping across the ocean. They happily swam and jumped alongside our boat, bellies full. We passed them and turn around - only to see three humpback whales gallivanting about. Pictures to come!

Right now, in the surf capital of Montañita Ecuador, we're waiting for the tide to rise. Surf conditions here are okay - we're currently in their winter overcast off season, but I'm sure the place remains laid back and liquor full year round. One more day in the surf, soon to Guayaquil Ecuador.

Best,
Jackie

Image from: jackie

Towns

Hi folks -

We're just flying right through Ecuador...

Right now I'm in Quito. It's a beautiful city enclosed by a cauldron of mountains, volcanoes, and a massive statue of Mary overlooking the city (and my hostel in the Old Town).

Yesterday we had a great view from the bell towers of a Basilica in the middle of Quito. I rang the bells to celebrate the treacherous climb through winding stairs, steps and wooden planks...

Today we're going to enjoy the New Town in the north, ride in the ciclovia bike paths, and eat a 4-course lunch.

Next - to humpback whale watching and the best surf in Ecuador on the Southern coast!

Best,
Jackie

Image from: jackie

Stars

Family and friends -

After 3.5 hours in the airport and 7 hours in the air - I have returned to Bogota Colombia. Free to travel with Linda for 5 weeks!

Week 1: Bogota Colombia.

Linda and I rode the teleferico up to Cerro de Monserrate peak to take in the panoramic view of Bogota's 7.8 million inhabitants from 10,000 ft. (Please see attached pic.) My altitude headaches have finally subsided, but I still wheeze walking up the mountain base in Linda's neighborhood - La Candelaria.

La Candelaria is Bogota's oldest neighborhood filled with quaint brick streets, colorful stucco walls, tiled roofs, tasty vegetarian restaurants, national museums, and theaters.

Tuesday, we saw a local one-woman show and dined with Linda's theatre students to celebrate the end of their semester's work. I avoided shortness of breath and Spanish language shortcomings by concentrating on one-liner jokes.

Today Linda finished all her work (aka: Fulbright, Ministry of Education, and USAID) and I've finally pulled my head out of the Lonely Planet: South America travel guide - and we're free to begin week 2: Quito Ecuador!

Adios and all the best.

Cheers,
Jackie

Image from: jackie

Send

Ladies -

Well, I'm off and gone. Leaving for South America - tonight!

Please let me know if you want to keep updated of Linda's and my 5 week mis-adventures. It should be exciting: avoiding the FARC, Cartagena heat stroke, mugged at Machu Picchu...

Then again, Huaraz should be spectacular!

Hope all is well with each of you and that you're enjoying the best plumbing the world has to offer.

Best,
Jackie

Image from: DefMo