Red

29 September 2007: Beng Mealea has been twice overrun: once by jungle and previously by the Khmer Rouge.

An official sign declares the temple landmine-free as of September 12th, 2007. Not to worry, there were more locals there than tourists, so I followed the children's safe route clamoring on top of the temple walls.

I enjoyed the sunset at the panoramic hilltop at Phnom Bakheng with a beautifully rich sundown show and afterglow.

And so ends my 3-day Angkor Temple complex pass.

Images from: jackie

Move

28 September 2007: Second evening with Craig (Hong Kong investment banker, Florida).

We met at the temples yesterday and have been meeting for dinners. After tonight's meal we ended up at Angkor What? bar. A rowdy British 21 year old birthday boy was able to meet a challenge - get all 16 people around this corner to go the the club and we'll join you there.

We arrived at the club and saw a parking lot filled with motor scooters. My goodness - it's a local's bar. Craig's driver says there are often fights here.

Inside, surprisingly the women are not scantily clad and no one has dance moves - merely moving. The whole place explodes with excitement during an electronic cover of Vanilla Ice's song, Ice Ice Baby. I search for my nearby exit when people sing Happy Birthday and light hand sparkler fireworks.

Between the lady-boy's high pitch screeching and the girls dancing together, I can sip my drink and enjoy the spectacle. Best, was at the other side of the dance floor where one of Cambodia's best dancers is moving like no other. We are all supremely impressed and Craig's driver notes: He must be from Phnom Penh...

Note

28 September 2007: Sunrise and run at Angkor Wat temple.

Highlight of the day was my 10 AM lunch and nap. I woke up in a hammock with a puppy guarding me.

Favorite temple of the day was Banteay Srey - red stone and beautifully maintained carvings. It was also a refreshing drive through countryside and rice fields.

On the route back I stopped at Sras Srang waterfront. Turns out it is beside the archway I found shelter from the rain yesterday. The market girl spotted me immediately asked me what I wanted to buy (key words emphasized).

She made offers in her Jamaican-sounding accent and so did I:
- I want to buy Cambodia.
- I would nev-ah sell ma kon-tree.

After looking at the waterfront site I returned to her market stand. She approached me with a pair of trousers. Incessant this one.

I met her whole crew. She did most of the talking for her group, then suddenly spoke Khmer to point out out my blood donation band aid. Her mom looked up at me slowly, stood up, and offered me her chair. The girl noted: for free...

Images from: jackie

Wat

27 September 2007:

My thousand words on Angkor Wat temple:

Image from: jackie

Drop

27 September 2007: There are so many temples to see in this burning heat.

Highlight of the day was Ta Prohm (a la Tomb Raider fame). The jungle is slowly gnawing it's way through the complex. Many collapsed walls and ceilings have blocked passageways, making this large temple seem much smaller - yet more like an adventure.

I got to the famous postcard image tree and surprisingly few people were there.

Next highlight of the day was the funniest and best English speaking Khmer girl in all of Cambodia. I met her when a massive downpour outside Banteay Kdei sent children, cows, and me seeking shelter in a small gateway. She wouldn't stop trying to sell me souvenirs in her Jamaican sounding accent - pure entertainment:

- What you want?
- Silence.
- Okay, I give you one minute peace and quiet to tink ova my t-shirt offer.

Images from: jackie

Pool

26 September 2007: Boat ride through the floating village to Tonle Sap lake.

The floating village has unsettling juxtaposition - children paddling in metal tubs beside massive floating restaurants, as well as run down floating platform houses boasting massive stereo equipment.

Currently the rainy season, drowned trees expose only thin branches tickling the air. Big wake from large boats send shock waves through the floating mangroves. The brown water recedes to a shore strip, barely allowing passage for people walking their motorcycles.

Tonle Sap lake is the largest lake in Southeast Asia. A truly un-earthly feel...

My favorite was the floating billiards bar. If you miss your shot, you can always jump up and down.

Image from: jackie

Friends

26 September 2007: I would give my blood, and more, to Angkor Hospital for Children.

The hospital serves 350 children each day - free of charge. They treat upper respiratory infections, dengue fever, emergencies, surgeries...

Arun Sinketh (Public Relations) gave me the tour - starting with the machine shop run by Va Morgan. I also saw their medical training facility, outreach center, in-patient ward, out-patient ward, IC unit, surgery, laboratory, waiting hall, kitchen...

It's a small facility with only x-ray and ultrasound, but Angkor Hospital for Children provides a great service to all Cambodia. This year they had to face a greater volume of patients with dengue fever - for some reason an outbreak happens every four years, the last in 2003.

I saw a tiny 26 day old child being treated for upper respiratory infection - the most common medical problem of patients at the hospital. Va told me how to wish the child good health in Khmer.

And I donated blood. Turns out my blood type is in high demand - it's even the same type as the nurse who collected my blood.

Afterwards I met up with Mark (British chef and IT) for an afternoon trip to Tonle Sap lake.

The first thing his driver said to me was that I look like a man. (Maybe I am a spy.) I told him to be nice - I gave blood today.

He then thanked me and said that was a very good thing - I could help his daughter. Good, I thought, maybe she would consider me a blood brother.

Image from: jackie

Open

Hey Mark and Liz -

Yesterday I flew on a tiny propellered fish painted airplane to arrive at Siem Reap. I'll be wandering around today to sweat and see what's Wat.

Like most places I travel to, Cambodia's weather reminds me of Hawaii. However, I've never seen a red sun forcing it's way through cloudlines towards a palm tree lined horizon quite like that before. Clem, my airport taxi scooter driver, was zooming along and I sat with the wind through my hair having only felt the sky as big on Vermont's Lake Champlain.

In the next few days I hope to get out further in that magical land. And don't worry - I'll stay on paths to avoid land mines.

When I get out to the Angkor Hospital for Children, I'll be sure to drop your names and see if any Brown folks are still working there - doing as you two awesome people have done so well.

Thanks again for the advice and I hope each of you are doing well.

Best,
Jackie

Beatles

24 September 2007: Hello (soo-a s'day) Cambodia, Goodbye (sayonara) Claire, Lauren, Tomo, and Japan.

Image from: jackie